Blue-jeans: trousers with five pockets’ cut, three in the front and two behind.
Workers’ uniform to symbol of freedom, rebellion and adventure. Jeans have earned a place of honor in the male wardrobe of all the world, becoming a universal piece that disregards roles and age. Pants of leisure and casual spirit.
The history of jeans is quite old: in 1500, the term blue jeans meant a particular type of tarp blue color used on ships to sail and to cover goods. Rough fabric, very resistant to bad weather, that was manufactured in the French town of Nimes, hence the word denim (de Nimes) and used by sailors from Genoa, in fact, the word Jean means blue of Genoa.
Since 1850 the term jeans began to be used to identify not only the fabric, but also a specific model of pants. Legend says that Morris Levi Strauss, Bavarian merchant who moved to California, sold almost all of its merchandise before landing on the ground and there were only some tarpaulins to be used, so when a gold prospector asked to sell him pants, he was able to make them only with that piece of canvas, which was in a khaki color. Some years later, in 1873, the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office (U.S. Patent Office) released the authorization to produce exclusive sturdy cotton pants held together, as well as from the points of the traditional sewing, even by metal rivets . Practically it was large and heavy pants, which would soon become the uniform of the trans-American railroad workers, miners and cowboys. At the end of the ‘800, makes its first entry the patch in leather: label with two horses that are trying to rip a pair of jeans, on the back of his pants, giving information about size and model. The double arch stitching of the back pockets was introduced in the same year, but only registered in 1942.
At the beginning of ‘900, other two companies have started making pants like jeans: Lee and Wrangler. The first pair of jeans arrived in Europe after the war, led by winner U.S.A. army; the first factories settled in Belgium, such as Blue Bell, Lee and Levis of course. Jeans, especially thanks to movie stars and music idols, becomes a symbol of rebellion and freedom: James Dean, Marlon Brando, Bob Dylan made of them their official uniform. At the end of the 70s brands transform it into an elegant piece of clothing worn by everyone, without social or political distinctions, thus becoming an object of cult.
Cotton fabric that can hold a percentage of lycra to give it elasticity, dyed when it is still wire, or before weaving. It’s special feature is that the warp is colored, while the plot remains in the raw yarn carded, creating the bicolor effect. Indigo color, which is now produced synthetically, the color is deposited only on the outside of the wire, with a bathroom and oxidation process that leaves white or natural in the interior of the wires: that’s why denim discolors over the time. Its characteristic effect is generally appreciated by vintage‘s lovers, used in many cases as an added value to the jeans.
Once packaged, denim is very stiff, while after the first wash the fabric reacts clutching and softening, so that many brands now offer jeans already washed and treated, called rinsed. There are many types of washing: the bleached jeans, in a very light color thanks to the addition of chlorine at the first washing, the tie-blanched, with irregular blotches, and the famous stone-washed, washed with pumice stones which gives it a worn look.
Trends have passed over the time: tight jeans on the hips and thighs but baggy on the calves called flared, or otherwise soft on the sides but on the calves, or completely very thigh as the skinny, and so away.