Fall/winter 2014 menswear has been in Paris, here are the most interesting fashion shows for next season: Dior Homme, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Valentino.
With Kris Van Assche, Dior detaches from its past. The force is given by the fine details sought by the ubiquitous formality of the proposals. Pinstripe suits offered in multiple versions, polka dots placed anywhere, the lily of the valley looks like a trompe l’oeil from a pocket or all over shirt. Denim, military parkas and nylon jackets are put over pinstriped trousers: everything to create a varied and multiform collection.
Teddy boys dressed in digital tweed, micro-leopard prints, sequins and giant pied de poule. Hedi Slimane presents a collection which seems to be designed and built to an ’60s English rock and roll band.
Kim Jones, Louis Vuitton fashion designer, tried, and found, inspiration during a research trip in the Atacama desert of Chile and returned to Paris bringing colors, landscapes and stones in a mesmerizing collection. LV’s man is a globe-trotter who loves luxury and wears parka in silk, cashmere trench coat with stripes, tailored suits and cobalt-blue travel bags.
The intent of Veronique Nichanian is to make the beautiful fabrics and materials, which have always characterized the French maison, a step forward, leading to seduce with ease thanks to their quality. A sober collection, in which bright colors are almost banned, where found space texture and embroidered details. The man Hermes has nothing to prove to the fashion world and Nichanian is just like him, she satisfy herself from 25 years and in a perfect way.
A collection that has never been more free from schemes, under the direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who said “the ultimate luxury is to do what you want“: Valentino instigate to anarchy. On the catwalk: suits that seem to lead to pajamas, jeans, outerwear with decorations inspired by the ethnic mosaics. A soft show: wool coats embroidered with tribal wings on shoulders, to evoke the majestic carpets on the catwalk.