The story of the pants is long and troubled. They say they were introduced as an equestrian garment many centuries before the birth of Christ.
During the Roman Empire they disappeared to reappear at the beginning of the Middle Ages in every man closet to never leave it again.
After the excesses of the Renaissance (XV century) and during the kingdom of Louis XIV (XVII century), the pants have slowly started to take shapes and fittings more and more similar to those that are used today .


Fortunately, after years of monopoly of jeans, the number of young men that decide to go for different kind of pants is growing.
As for every sort of clothing is important to choose them according to our body as much as to the situation in which we are going to wear them.

So how to choose the right pants?

There is not an unique answer, however I can give some useful tips to choose the right pants.


The rule says that the pants have to show 1/3 of the shoes only but, according to my personal taste, pants just have to touch the shoes or even to stop a cm above them.
In fact I like to show the shoes in its entirety as well as a pair of socks carefully chosen .
To be avoided pants unsightly folding on the shoes.

Crease trousers or not?
With the exception of sporty pants, jeans and cargo pants, my advice is to always go for crease trousers. In fact creases make the legs more slender.

Many attribute this “invention” to Edward VII, father of all dandies.
A story tells that, after have trivially ripped the pants he was wearing, the king had to buy a new pair in a random shop where dozens of trousers were badly folded on the shelves. Heedless, Edward decided to wear them anyway without caring of conspicuous creases on the front. People noticed this detail and did the same determining a never ending success.


With or without lapels ?
Lapels are suitable for those lucky people having long and thin legs (see Phil C: D). However despite I have muscolar and not long legs, I choose them for most of my pants .

Most conservative would cuffed pants for the free time only while the ones without lapels for special occasions and at nighttime.
In my opinion, the rule can be easily broken with the exception of when you are wearing a tuxedo .

Generally I go for flap between 3 and 4 cm: this is the standard height I would recommend to everyone.

The bottom of the pants.
It ‘s very important to carefully consider the width of the pants because this is crucial in giving balance to the whole figure. The”perfect”  trousers should follow the leg and slightly tighten on the bottom.

I always opt for a fund between 15 and 16 cm .
I advise you not to exceed 17.5 cm and to always consider the elasticity of pants (remember you also have to take the them off :D) .


The pinces.
What are the pinces? The pinces are folds, obtained by sewing pieces of fabric together.
Pinces are an useful tool when the figure is not thin because they hide any roundness .


To avoid?
Wearing trousers with belt and braces together.
Wearing trousers in a similar color to the jacket.
Pants that are wider at the bottom.
Turn the pants inside when they are too long .
Shorts socks showing a piece of leg.

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  1. Ciao Filippo

    I also choose a bottom width of 15/16 cm, the problem is when I sit down they use to get deformed at knees. I hope you can give me a piece of advice, i’m really frustrated at this point.

  2. Ciao grazie per i preziosi consigli! Vorrei solo chiederti un chiarimento sulla lunghezza; praticamente come faccio ad individuare la lunghezza giusta? Rispetto a quale parte della scarpa devo determinare la giusta lunghezza?grazie mille

  3. Inoltre che calza metteresti con abito grigio chiaro e scarpa marrone molto molto scura (terra bruciata)? Mi interesserebbe sia la regola che idee personali …grazie ancora

  4. Ciao Filippo, bel post. complimenti.
    mi potresti consigliare qualche libro su tessuti e confezione per favore?
    quello che cerco e’ dei libri che mi spieghino quali sono i migliori tessuti da usare in ogni capo
    Cerco anche dei libro su confezione e modellistica uomo che spieghino le tipiche confezioni e cartamodelli di ogni capo.
    Il tuo articolo e’ eccellente, ti sei basato su qualche libro o sito forse?
    grazie in anticipo!

  5. un uomo durante tutta la sua vita attiva, con muscolatura normale non può indossare il pantalone con un fondoinferiore a cm,18.30. oggi introvabile! cosi viene rispettata l’eleganza della scarpa e la vestibilità. se esiste un’azienda italiana che opera così comunicatemelo. grazie ed ossequi